Restaurant Chains Try to Woo a Younger Generation

For reasons as varied as the economic downturn and a heightened interest in local foods, a significant shift in eating patterns is under way among the millennials, those 18 to 30. Oddly, at least by historic trends, they are eating out less than the baby boomers did at that age. Many in the restaurant business worry that it may be impossible to reverse the decline, which affects 50 million to 60 million young people.

The statistics alone are stark. Restaurant visits among millennials have fallen 16 percent over the last four years, according to research by the NPD Group, a consumer marketing firm, and have failed to pick up as the economy has improved.

“The outlook for the restaurant industry over the next 10 years is dismal,” said Bonnie Riggs, a restaurant industry analyst at NPD.

Over all, sales are expected to grow less than 4 percent in the next decade, a troublesome projection for not only burger chains like McDonald’s but for the newer “fast-casual” dining businesses like Chipotle. McDonald’s stunned investors last month when it announced that its sales in stores open at least a year had fallen 1.2 percent after rising every quarter for almost the last decade.

And so far, restaurant chains have failed to benefit from the steady improvement in the overall economy.

“The informal eating out industry is either flat or declining in many markets around the world,” the chief executive of McDonald’s, Don Thompson, told investors last month.

It is true that restaurant chains like Chipotle, which has a devotion to explaining the origins of its ingredients that brings to mind the “Portlandia” sketch about a chicken dinner, and Subway, where customers plan their own sandwiches and watch them being assembled, are doing better among the millennials than traditional sit-down restaurants and fast-food chains.

But between the proliferation of artisanal food trucks and items like cupcakes made of Valrhona and Callebaut chocolates and topped with a fondant daisy for $2.75 at Georgetown Cupcake, or Fresh Direct’s offering of “heritage” pork from the Flying Pigs Farm in upstate New York, millennials tend to spend their dining dollars sparingly and in a more calculated way.

“This was the group hardest hit by the economic crisis, and there’s a debate right now about whether their purchasing behavior has changed fundamentally as a result,” said Tony Pace, chief marketing officer for Subway. “I think, personally, that there appears to be a structural change. There isn’t a single point — ta-da! — that points to it, but there are a lot of little things that do.”

Vera Chang, 26, who lives in Vermont, is one of those consumers who pays attention to the ingredients on the menu and the origins of the food they favor. She says she rarely eats at chain restaurants, finding places instead through Edible Communities, which gives advice on restaurants, chefs and food, or the local newspaper, which tells her about the chef and the provenance of the foods served.

“I like to know the story about the places I eat,” Ms. Chang said. “I think it’s key to feed one’s heart in addition to one’s stomach when going out.”

She said it was harder for chain restaurants to tell stories about the people behind the food they served and about themselves.

David Palmer, who follows the restaurant industry for UBS, underscored Ms. Chang’s points, noting how particular the younger clientele could be, especially during tough economic times. “The austere crowd has cut back, and pretty significantly,” Mr. Palmer said. “It’s partly that they’re economically challenged by the job market and student loans, but they also want authenticity in ingredients and the ability to customize meals in restaurants.”

According to NPD, it is not that millennials have abandoned fast food altogether: Hamburger chains like McDonald’s, Wendy’s and Burger King get nearly 28 percent of the millennials’ fast-service patronage. They just tend to eat there less often, or they have switched to newer burger places like Shake Shack, Mooyah, In-N-Out Burger and Smashburger.

This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:

Correction: June 7, 2013

An earlier version of this article misstated the surname of the chief executive of McDonald’s. He is Donald Thompson, not Donald Taylor.

New Sbarro Pizza Recipe to Drive Chain’s Turnaround Plans

Executives at Sbarro, the chain ubiquitous at shopping malls and airports, are hoping to elevate their restaurants in consumers’ minds with a better quality of pizza.

Aided by some technological changes, the company will return to making tomato sauce fresh and shredding cheese in each restaurant, instead of using prepackaged ingredients. The reformulated pizza is intended to help transform Sbarro into a “fast casual” restaurant chain like Panera Bread and Qdoba, said James J. Greco, who became chief executive at the beginning of the year.

Such restaurants offer customers better food quality and specialization without full table service, thus falling somewhere between fast food, or what the industry calls quick service, and casual dining restaurants. Customers often can select the ingredients for, say, a basic item like a pizza or a sandwich, which is made in a few minutes and handed over a counter for a meal costing $8 to $15.

Several pizza chains that have emphasized quick service are making the transition to the fast-casual category, said Darren Tristano, executive vice president of Technomic, an industry consulting firm. Pizza Inn, which has 300 restaurants, recently started Pie Five Pizza, a fast-casual chain that bakes nine-inch pizzas “designed” by customers in five minutes. Naked Pizza of New Orleans and 800 Degree Pizza out of Los Angeles are other examples.

“Sbarro fits into the quick service category because of its price point and service format, where nothing is made to order,” Mr. Tristano said. “In malls and food courts, they’ve struggled during the recession, and in their stores in urban and suburban locations, they’re really up against much larger chains in the delivery space.”

A 56-year-old pizza chain founded in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, Sbarro staggered into bankruptcy in April 2011 with more than $400 million of debt. Its sales, like those of many other restaurants, had slid during the recession as customers ate out less and prices rose for commodities like flour. It exited bankruptcy eight months later, after shedding 28 stores and securing a $35 million line of credit.

Now Apollo Global Management and more than two dozen other investors are banking on Mr. Greco to achieve the same kind of turnaround at Sbarro that he did in his last post, at Bruegger’s, the bagel chain. A private company, Sbarro said it had $650 million in worldwide sales in 2011, $420 million of which was in the United States.

“We have to change people’s perception of us,” Mr. Greco said over one of the company’s new cheese pizzas at its store north of Times Square. “We feel there’s no better way to do that than to get this pizza into as many mouths as possible as fast as we can.”

Thus, two vintage trucks are beginning a national tour, starting in New York and Los Angeles and working their way around the country, handing out free slices.

Mr. Greco faced a similar challenge at Bruegger’s, one of the many bagel chains that thrived during the bagel enthusiasm of the 1980s but suffered when consumer preferences changed. He added soups, wraps, salads and sandwiches to that menu and, while the stores still sell bagels, it is a place to have a light lunch today.

Bruegger’s was sold in 2011 to Groupe Le Duff, a French restaurant company that also owns Brioche Dorée, earning a hefty return for Sun Capital, the private equity firm that had hired Mr. Greco to fix it.

“He grew the brand and shifted it into a fast-casual place,” Mr. Tristano said. “He did a nice job of moving it more to a cafe.”

Since June, Sbarro has been testing a fast-casual format at 10 locations across the country. The updated restaurants offer pastas made to order in front of customers in 45 seconds in sauté pans on induction stovetops or in fast boilers sunk into countertops.

But the test has shown that pizza still drives Sbarro’s sales. Pizza accounted for almost half of sales in the test sites, according to Nation’s Restaurant News, while pasta generated just 6 percent.

For advice, Mr. Greco turned to a local pizza restaurant in New Haven, where he lives — though he would not divulge the name of the shop or its owner. The goal was to come up with a basic, Neapolitan-style pizza that could stand up to the local pizza wherever there is a Sbarro store. “Why can’t we do that?” Mr. Greco asked.

Along with changing ingredients, the chain is adding open-flame ovens to increase the “theater” of the experience as well as cut the time it takes to cook a pizza and reheat a slice.

To ensure consistency, the company long ago began making its tomato sauce and shredding its cheese in central locations and shipping it to restaurants.

Every pizza was the same — but every pizza did not taste as good as it could, said Anthony J. Missano, president of business development at Sbarro.

The company is now shipping whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes, which are put through a food mill as needed and made into a sauce with minimal ingredients at the restaurants.

Cheese is shipped in blocks and shredded on site as well. “People are much smarter about what they’re eating,” Mr. Missano said. “They have higher expectations of what they’re going to get when they go to a restaurant, and we’re going to give it to them with this new pizza.”

The next step in Sbarro’s turnaround will be to adjust its real estate mix. The company has about 1,000 stores, about 420 of which it owns; the rest are franchised. Four-fifths of them are in mall and airport food courts, where rents are high and it is easy for customers to move to a different counter.

Mr. Greco’s plan is to open new stores on street fronts, where the company has about 70 restaurants.

“It’s as if we are doing a jigsaw puzzle,” he said. “You dump out all the pieces on the table, sort through them and look at the picture on the box — except that instead of putting the pieces back together to form the picture, you have to make a new picture out of them.”